I ordered the parts for the surround mixing box that I'm making, including a 105x150x55 black aluminium chassis with tracks for holding a PCB. I had originally planned to buy a special drill bit to drill a 12-14 mm circular hole for the micro-USB connector, but I decided that it would be better to make a slot by drilling several holes and filing away the material between them.
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🇳🇴 Thor — backup account (thorthenorseman@octodon.social)'s status on Sunday, 09-Sep-2018 19:16:08 EDT
🇳🇴 Thor — backup account
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🇳🇴 Thor — backup account (thorthenorseman@octodon.social)'s status on Sunday, 09-Sep-2018 19:27:48 EDT
🇳🇴 Thor — backup account
(Continued) I'll need to drill 9 additional rear holes, all of them circular, for the mini-jack connectors. On the front, I'll need 4 holes for peak meter LEDs and one hole/slot for the power switch.
I wish I had my old drill press. I think it's sitting in a storage unit that's a bit hard for me to access at the moment, and I don't know if it's in good condition, so I'm gonna have to do this with a handheld drill. I need a means of creating a lead hole in a precise spot, to within +/- 1 mm.
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🇳🇴 Thor — backup account (thorthenorseman@octodon.social)'s status on Sunday, 09-Sep-2018 19:31:01 EDT
🇳🇴 Thor — backup account
(Continued) I think I could tolerate upward of +/- 2mm, but that's gonna look bad. I don't want a row of LEDs that doesn't even attempt to run in a straight line.
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🇳🇴 Thor — backup account (thorthenorseman@octodon.social)'s status on Sunday, 09-Sep-2018 19:39:59 EDT
🇳🇴 Thor — backup account
(Continued) It looks like I could use a plain old awl to make a dent in the aluminium panel before I drill a pilot hole. Aluminium is soft, so it hopefully shouldn't require a ton of force. I think I'll need to draft and print a template and then strike the awl through the paper to mark the centers of the holes. I ordered digital calipers on eBay, so it shouldn't be a problem to make a drawing that matches the dimensions of the front panel.
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