If it isn't obvious at this point, I'm starting to get a wine bottle type philosophy when it comes to choosing beer: How good is the label? But with wine there's an assumption that spending money on graphic design is an investment in backing up the quality of drink; craft beer labels are more about catching the eye on a more level playing field taste wise. Anyway: Dandy of the Underworld! Squid in a top hat and monocle! Umami, coffee-ish stout!